The March Hare (Sakizo): Progress Post 1-- Corsets & Cameos

Images are up!! 
Recently I've seen numerous people cosplaying from Sakizo artwork (including Yaya Han, who recently participated in a group at a convention), and I wanted in on the fad. I went through numerous Sakizo prints, and almost died when I saw The March Hare illustration. Everything about this was absolutely perfect, and I wanted to start right away.

I will admit, I've taken a few artistic liberties with my interpretation of The March Hare. I'm doing this to be unique, I want the costume to really feel like mine. 
Also, please excuse the crappy photos. I've finally purchased my first DSLR camera and I'm really quite horrible at photography. 

To start with, I drafted a corset. I used Simplicity 5009 with a few changes, such as the cups being separate from the body of the corset. I used sharpies to mark how I wanted each piece to look and what changes needed to be made (such as making it taller), then I cut apart the muslin and patterned it onto craft paper.

Once I had the pattern all cut out, I cut the lining out of black cotton. After I finished sewing all the pieces together, I sewed bias tape boning channels in the lining fabric.

I ran out of black bias tape...

Next I cut out a layer of white canvas. I basted each type of fabric onto the white canvas, then sewed each piece together.

This is the stack of fabric I started with. This isn't all of it, and some I had purchased previously. Not all of it has been used to make the corset, but I hope to find places for all the unique laces and trims that I purchased

Once I had the corset pretty much made, I started attaching the frills. In order to ruffle each piece I did a lose zig-zag stitch over very thin (non-stretchy) cording, then pulled it looked the way I wanted, and then straight stitched through the center of the cord. After all the ruffles and trims were sewn on, I tacked down some of the pieces so that they would stay in place when the costume is on.

I was  having a bit of trouble capturing the details of the corset, especially the dark fabric. The black I'm using is actually a dark taffeta flocked with black velvet roses. I chose this fabric because I thought it would break up the monotony of all solids.

High brightness closeup of the black ruffles

Beading details


I spent a lot of time hand sewing beads and cameos on, it ended up being right around 20 hours (All 6 episodes of BBC Sherlock, plus 2.5 seasons of Fullmetal Alchemist: Brotherhood... geeze), and I'm sure I'm not out of the water of hand sewing yet. After all that was done, I decided I didn't like the way the boob part of the corset looked, so I ripped out the top seams, including the top cameo and about 20 beads. I shortened it about 2 inches, and re-sewed all the beads on. This was actually a pretty tough decision, and even though it looks the same sitting on the floor, it fits me a lot better now. 

After has the beading re-done and the bra sewn in

At some point during the whole sewing process I realized that the corset wasn't going to work with me wearing a bra under it (you would be able to see the bra over the side of the corset), so I had to ditch my plan to put boning under the bust area of the corset. I purchased a really cheap push-up bra, and ripped the ugly fabric and the underwire off.

No love lost with that awful fabric gone... Anyways, I sewed the bra into the lining of my corset near where the boning channels I had sewn in earlier were.

Once I had all the details done, I sewed the lining to the top of the corset, then top-stitched with tan and black thread. Next I had to bone the corset. I measured each boning channel, and cut the spiral steel boning with wire cutters and tipped them with metal bone tips. After each bone was in place, I basted the bottom of the corset (right sides of fabric together), then flipped it right sides out and top-stitched to finish off the bottom.

The *very* last thing to finish is the back. I simply top-stitched the back, then measured where I wanted my grommets, used my hole punch to make the holes, and my eyelet setter to set the grommets. Easy!

Here is the finished corset... It's soooo pretty!! More progress coming soon :)


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